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Hart Trailer Basics

Towing a load behind your vehicle involves a lot more than hitching up and moving on down the road . Here is the basic information you need to know.

How Much Can I Pull?

The weakest link determines the overall strength of any chain. The "chain" of "links" to consider when towing a horse trailer are:

• Tow Vehicle (including brake controller, auxiliary cooling, etc.)

• Hitch (including ball, draw-bar, hitch receiver, wiring, chains, etc.)

• Trailer (including coupler, axles, tongue weight, etc.)

Knowing your weakest link, will tell you what you can tow. If your tow vehicle has a turbo-charged 10-cyclinder diesel engine with 950-horsepower and a 3,000 pound class-II trailer hitch... 3,000 pounds is ALL you can safely tow.

 

Learn the Lingo - Towing has a language all its own.

GVWR: Gross Vehicle Weight Rating
Despite what it sounds like GVWR is something different than just the weight of a vehicle, for example. GVWR is the combined weight of a vehicle with all its passengers and cargo added in, and it's a key number to know before you start to tow.

GCWR: Gross Combination Weight Rating
This is the maximum allowable weight of the loaded-up trailer and the tow vehicle - with all its passengers and cargo, too-added together. It's a key measure for you to check to ensure you are not putting too much of a burden on your tow vehicle and risking costly damage.

TW: Tongue Weight
It relates to the amount of trailer weight that presses down on the trailer hitch at the back of a tow vehicle. Having too much or too little tongue weight can affect the safe handling and driving of your tow vehicle.

GTW: Gross Trailer Weight
The actual total (gross) weight of the fully loaded trailer (with horses, tack, hay, water, etc.). This is the actual weight you are pulling - sometimes called "Trailer GVW".

Curb Weight:  The empty weight of a vehicle including all factory options and accessories. 

For cars & trucks, this usually (but not always) includes at least half a tank of fuel and 1 person (driver) at 150 lbs.  For trailers, it is the empty weight of the trailer without horses, tack, hay, etc.

Have the Right Hitch

There are many hitches for towing, covering several rating classes. You need to find one that will fit your needs.

Obviously, your hitch has to be able to handle the GTW you plan to tow. For example, a Class I hitch can handle up to 2,000 pounds GTW and up to 200 pounds of tongue weight.

Hitches also differ in how they mount on a tow vehicle.

Weight-carrying hitches bolt on the tow vehicle's frame and/or bumper, and are commonly used for small- to medium-size trailers.

Weight-distributing hitches, used with hitch receivers, distribute the load among the wheels of the tow vehicle and the wheels of the trailer to provide improved steering and braking. Ford's RV and Trailer Towing Guide notes that these hitches "are only 'required' for Class IV applications" and generally aren't used for loads under 5,000 pounds.

The fifth-wheel hitch is uniquely mounted inside the bed of a pickup truck and puts more of the trailer weight directly over the tow vehicle, rather than behind it.

Hitches may need to be supplemented for improved sway management of your trailer. Hadeer A. Konja, supervisor of Dodge Truck vehicle development and synthesis, encourages anyone towing more than 3,000 pounds to consider adding a stabilizer bar that hooks to the hitch and the receiver. The stabilizer can reduce trailer sway, he said.

Trailer Towing Q & A

Besides the basics we've covered, there are several other more specific areas that you might be curious about. Let's take a look.

1. How much extra room do I need when turning with a trailer?

 

It's difficult to give an exact distance since it depends on the length of the trailer. With a typical trailer, making left turns isn't a big deal. But for right turns, you'll want to compensate at least some, initially, until you can determine how much space you need. With longer trailers, you'll need to "go wide" to some extent like big rigs do so you don't hit a curb with the trailer while in the middle of a right turn.

Think, for example, of how a big rig often makes right turns at least one lane over to the left in smaller intersections so the trailer doesn't hit the curb (or a sign or stoplight) as it travels through the turn. You need to apply the same logic when towing a trailer, even though your trailer isn't nearly as long.

 

 

2. How much does the typical 3500-pound trailer affect braking distances?

 

Obviously, the added weight of any trailer is going to affect braking distances significantly in an emergency situation. It's difficult to pinpoint exact distances, since much of it depends on factors like if the trailer is equipped with brakes and how much tongue weight there is. Testing is not commonly performed to determine braking distances with trailers in tow. But, the best way to be safe is to avoid emergencies in the first place. Allow as much space as possible between you and those in front of you.

A good place to start is to double the standard "two-second rule" when following behind another vehicle. Allow double the amount of space between you and the vehicle in front of you when towing a trailer. And the heavier the load, the more space you should allow.

 

 

3. What can happen if I exceed the tow rating for my vehicle?

 

The tow rating of any vehicle is based on numerous factors. The best advice is do not exceed the tow rating for any vehicle. If you do, you'll be overloading the suspension, overextending safe braking distances, and experience further reduced and possibly unsafe passing ability. You'll also overextend brake component capacities and, in some situations, encounter premature brake fade. Furthermore, you won't be doing any favors to the engine and drivetrain, and the chance of eventual transmission failure is also possible.

 

 

4. What should I do if the trailer starts to sway at a high speed - i.e. if "the tail starts wagging the dog," so to speak?

 

If you get to a point where you experience trailer sway, it's likely that something else is wrong. The problem could be insufficient tongue weight. If you have a travel trailer, shift heavier items to the front and lighter ones to the rear. With a trailer, move the vehicle forward. There are also a number of sway-control devices available to stop this condition before it begins. If this condition exists, the trailer and tow vehicle haven't been set up properly. Whatever the case, the first thing is to avoid panic. It's also likely this condition will occur gradually.

Don't ignore any first signs of trailer sway. But if it starts, slow down by taking your foot off the accelerator. Let vehicle speed decrease but do not put your foot on the brake pedal, which can make the situation worse. Once you're down to a safe speed, carefully apply the brakes and stop. You should then readjust the load or determine what else might be causing this condition.

 

 

5. How do I back up with a trailer attached?

 

If you've never backed up with a trailer, the first thing we'd recommend is to go to an empty parking lot or somewhere else with lots of space and practice to see what happens when you back up with the trailer attached. Also, don't rely on rearview mirrors. Turn behind and look at the trailer. Basically, when you turn the wheels of the tow vehicle to left, the trailer will go to the right; turn the wheels to the right and the trailer will go left.

To control the direction of the trailer while backing up, you need to keep this "reverse action" concept in mind. Oftentimes, you'll also have to pull forward and start over again to position the trailer exactly where you want it. Small and shorter trailers are often more difficult as they react much more quickly to steering wheel input.

If possible, it's also very helpful to have a spotter watching at the back of the trailer. If nothing else, they can yell "stop" before you back into something and cause damage to the trailer or any other item. Also, don't forget to look at the front of the tow vehicle, too, because when you turn while backing up, the front of the vehicle could possibly swing out far enough to hit something.

 

 

6. When I attach a trailer to my tow vehicle, the tow vehicle sags significantly. What can I do to keep that from happening?

 

Most trucks are set up to tow and haul, so their suspension probably won't sag when a trailer is attached. Passenger cars and some SUVs have softer suspensions and may need some help. A weight-distributing hitch should be used in these instances. It helps to evenly distribute the weight between the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle.

The spring bars of a weight distributing hitch work similarly to the handles of a wheelbarrow, lifting on the back of the tow vehicle and shifting the weight forward. Airbags or air shocks can also help the rear suspension when towing. When in doubt, seek the help of a Hart Trailer Dealer.

 

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7. Are front-wheel-drive vehicles OK for towing? How about all-wheel-drive? What are the benefits and detriments of each type of system?

 

As long as you don't exceed the tow rating of the vehicle, any front-wheel-drive car, SUV or minivan will tow fine. The main consideration with using a front-wheel-drive vehicle as a tow rig is the fact there will be less weight over the drive wheels, which could be a factor in such situations as towing up a steep and wet hill. An all-wheel- or four-wheel-drive vehicle for towing also works fine, but keep in mind that an all- or four-wheel-drive version of any vehicle will usually have a lower tow rating than the same vehicle in a two-wheel-drive version. Obviously, you don't need an all-wheel-drive vehicle or a 4x4 truck for towing a trailer on the highway.

If you're thinking about a vehicle purchase and towing is a large reason for buying that vehicle, then a rear-wheel-drive truck or SUV is the best way to go. All- or four-wheel-drive vehicles will tow just as well, but the vehicle will use more gas due to the added weight of the components.

 

8. If a tire on my trailer suffers a blowout, are there any differences to changing a trailer tire from a vehicle tire?

 

Not really. Any safety precautions you use to change a tire on a car apply to the trailer, too. Chock the opposite side wheel, use a heavy enough jack to support the trailer's weight and loosen the lug nuts some first before raising the wheel off the ground. That way, the wheel won't spin while it's in the air and you're trying to loosen the lug nuts.

 

 

9. Do I need those extra-wide mirrors for towing?

 

That depends on the width of the trailer. For the average trailer, you'll likely be able to see down the side of the vehicle and trailer with the factory-equipped side-view mirrors. But for wider trailers, you'll need side-view mirrors that stick out far enough so you see down the side of the trailer.

For example, a narrower SUV like an Explorer towing a trailer might need to be equipped with aftermarket towing mirrors that match the width of the trailer so the driver can see down both sides. In addition, it's illegal to tow without mirrors that don't allow the driver to see down the entire length of the vehicle and trailer. Check your state's laws for specific guidelines regarding towing mirrors.

 

 

10. What's the best way to ascend a mountain when towing? What about descending?

 

In general, you want to keep things steady and consistent. That means when you're going uphill you don't want the transmission hunting between gears, such as third and fourth. Depending on the weight of the load and the grade of the hill, you'll likely want to hold the transmission in third gear (locking out overdrive), which will also keep the engine in the range where it makes the most torque. Keeping the transmission out of top gear will also prevent you from lugging the engine or necessitating undesired downshifts when you accelerate out of turns at slow speeds. It's the same for a manual transmission. Driving in the next lower gear will keep the engine in its best operating range.

Going downhill, you want to use a combination of the engine and the brakes to keep your speeds safe. Don't ride the brakes too much and get them too hot. Downshift to a lower gear and use the engine as a brake on steeper hills and then, when needed, use the brakes sparingly to slow down from there. When the hill levels off a bit, you can upshift to the next gear and keep your frequency of brake use about the same.

It's all a give-and-take in relation to the grade of the hill, the weight of your load and the gear ratios in the transmission, which all need to be considered when it comes to keeping your speeds safe going up and down hills.